Mr Porter Tells You How To Dress For Autumn
INN & OUT
I started on the shop floor and I always had “a pub test” in my head. From my perspective it works like this. When you walk into a pub, you want to look different enough from your mates so girls will notice you, but not so different that your mates will take the piss out of you. I still buy with that “pub test” in mind. Clothes are made to be worn, not the other way around. Dress how you feel comfortable.
I travel a lot for work – I’m away for maybe three-and-a-half months a year. When it comes to packing, I’ve developed a work “uniform” so that I don’t really have to think about it. I wear a white Thom Browne Oxford shirt every day. Everything in my wardrobe is black, white or dark grey so that I can mix everything together and don’t have to worry about it
FASTEN / LOOSE
Unless you’re wearing a one-button blazer, the bottom button on your jacket should never be done up. On two or three-button jackets, you can do up the top two buttons but never the bottom one. The reason is the jackets aren’t cut for that button to be done up, so you’ll start to change the shape.
SEAL OF APPROVAL
When you get a proper tailored blazer or suit jacket don’t un-pick the pockets. Leave them sealed, don’t use them, pretend they’re not pockets and just think of them as a trim detail. If you use them, you’ll ruin the line of the jacket. It’s fine to use the internal pockets or the breast pocket for a pocket square, but the two front pockets should stay sealed forever. Do that and your jackets will last you five to 10 years longer.
Stuck for a gift for your missus? You can’t ever really go wrong with cashmere. Go for a scarf or a roll-neck. Navy blue cashmere always looks nice on girls.
I use shoe-trees for all my shoes. As you sweat through the leather, your shoes will start to deform. Cedar wood shoe-trees suck in the moisture because the wood is porous. Not only will they stop your shoes from smelling, they’ll also help the leather keep its shape so they’ll last longer.
Don’t tuck your t-shirt into your jeans. But if you’re wearing a business shirt with a pair of trousers it should <i>always<i> be tucked in. Personally, I’d only ever wear a business shirt with trousers not jeans. With jeans you’re better off going for a heavier fabric like chambray or an Oxford.
I reckon they’re are the most versatile style of boot. Don’t be afraid of going for suede in dark brown or dark great – when they get beaten up, they’ll just look more rugged and rock’n’roll. When it comes to brands, the classic RM Williams Chelsea boots are still one of the best on the market.
You need some kind of water-proof parka or single-breasted mac that’s relatively packable. I carry an Arc’teryx Veillance parka jacket rolled up in my bag constantly throughout the autumn. It’s super lightweight, waterproof and breathable. I’m a big fan of technical outerwear.
I’ll wear one to work over a shirt, but also throw one over a t-shirt with jeans and trainers on Saturday morning. If you’re going to buy one, remember that cashmere yarn takes grey or navy blue dye best. Black cashmere won’t be quite as soft.